TURNER V95 SERIES ENGINES
TURNER 1V95 ENGINE
TURNER 2V95 MARINE 
TURNER 4V95 ENGINE
 TURNER 2V95 INDUSTRIAL 
Turner V95 series engine development
The four stroke diesel engines produced by the Turner Manufacturing Company Limited (TMC) of Wolverhampton, England were designated the 95 series normally referred to as the V95 series.
The first variant of the engine was designed as two cylinder in Vee formation known as the 2V95.
The second variant was an upright single cylinder known as the 1V95.
The third variant was a four cylinder in Vee formation known as the 4V95.
The initial designs for the engine were conceived during WW2 and is attributed to Malcolm J. Robson who was employed by Turners at the time. This is based on the fact that a patent for the improvement of the combustion process was filed on Turners behalf by Malcolm J. Robson quoting a Wolverhampton address. The patent was filed in February 1944, granted in February 1945 and applied to the first production engines. The patent number is incorporated into the alloy rocker covers used on the early engines and some examples of the engines with the patented tapered groove are known to exist in preservation.  The thought that the engine was originally intended for marine use has some credence. Design of the 2V95 was the first to take place and the choice of 68 degrees for included angle of the Vee is more associated with marine applications where width constraints are applied to the design brief (presumably a war time need). As normal with a Vee engine the con rods of the 2V95 share the same crankshaft journal for the big end bearings. In the 1V95 the same crankshaft is used with a big end bearing that is much wider than is necessary (same width as both 2V95 bearings) so it is obvious that the 1V95 is an adaptation of the 2V95 rather than the normal single cylinder being developed first then the two cylinder. The V95 series of engines can be totally stripped from the top down for overhaul and repair and the crankshaft is removed from the rear of the engine so no access is needed under the engine. These features are most desirable in marine applications. Marketing of the 2V95 and 1V95  engines started in 1946 and were part of the Company's plans to make up for the loss of Turners aircraft undercarriage related business and the major reduction in the orders for military recovery winches. Development of the 4V95 engine continued with the industrial version being marketed in 1948 and the tractor version in 1949. All the engines were available for industrial and marine applications and there  were a number of formats available such as, hopper cooled, tank cooled, radiator cooled by thermo-flow, radiator cooled with circulating pump, raw water cooling for marine applications and open or enclosed flywheel. A number of ancillaries were also available such as electric start with battery charging, over center clutch and Marine gearboxes. They were also supplied as complete generating and pumping units.
 Click on the link below for a list of known survivors.
Checks for Turner Diesel 1V95 and 2V95 engines that have been idle for an extended period.
This guide is intended for anyone with only a basic knowledge of Turner diesel engines.
All normal checks should be carried out before starting an engine.

Check condition of oil and decide if it needs to be replaced. If it is to be replaced there is a filter in the sump that should be removed and washed in diesel. Once the oil has been drained unscrew the nut at the bottom of the suction pipe from the pump and remove the 2 studs holding the pick-up pipe to the sump. Remove the pick-up pipe and pull out the filter which is immediately behind it. If it looks usable slacken off the sump plug to ensure that it is not contaminated with water. Repeat process with fuel but if previous history of engine unknown best to replace fuel.
To carry out an initial assessment of the condition I normally leave the cooling system off and see if the engine will fire up and run for a few seconds before shutting it down. There is not normally a stop lever on Turner engines and they are stopped by pushing the governor control lever at the pump rack. On 2V95 engines that is towards the front of the engine and on 1V95 engines it is towards the rear. (The spring opens the throttle so you have to push in the opposite direction)
Turn crankshaft to ensure that it turns freely with no tight spots. If seized or major tight spots are encountered a major strip down will be required. In the case of the 2V95 if the crankshaft turns freely for almost a full turn then goes solid it is possible that carbon has flaked off the head and collected on the lowest part of the piston. It then gets jammed between the head and the piston. If the  crankshaft jams just before TDC then this is the probable cause. To rectify, remove the head of the cylinder that is at TDC and clear the carbon deposit.
Check that the governor mechanism and pump rack are operating freely. If pump rack stuck dress with fine emery cloth and soak with penetrating fluid and work back and forward until it frees off. The 1V95 has the governor shaft in the alloy front casing and is prone to seizing due to the reaction between the steel and aluminium. If necessary soak with penetrating fluid and free off.
Check the valves and de-compressor are not stuck. If stuck lubricate and free off. The de-compressor is either a button located on the rocker cover or a lever attached to a plate at the air filter. The button type is locked by pressing it down and turning it ¼ turn. (on 1946 engines and some 1947 engines the de-compressor button screws in and out)  The lever type is operated by moving the lever to the horizontal position.
If crankshaft turns freely check for oil pressure. If no oil pressure, remove connection for oil pressure gauge and press the nozzle of an oil can into the fitting and pump oil into the oil gallery and try again. This will get some lubrication to the bearings and fill the oil pipes to the pump. If there is still no oil pressure remove the cover from oil pump (two of the studs hold the pump to the crankcase but the oil pipes will hold the pump in position) and check the plungers move freely when engine is turned.
The plungers are cam operated with spring return (No. 5 and 6 on diagram). When the engine is turned after sitting for an extended period the cam pushes them to the top of the stroke but the spring is not sufficient to return them and they stick. If this happens push them back down while turning the engine until they free off. If too tight to push back down tap them gently using a piece of round brass or copper bar making sure that the cam is not at the top of it’s stroke. If the oil pump has to be removed take care as there are two pressure relief springs and check valves (No. 7 and 8 on diagram) as well as the plungers in the underside of the pump that can fall into the sump unless they are held in position as the pump is lifted away from the engine. (When refitting the pump pack the galleries with grease before inserting the ball and spring and this will hold them in position)  Once the plungers are moving freely turn the engine until they are at their lowest position and fill them with oil then replace the cover. Normal oil pressure when cold is about 30 PSI and 20 PSI when hot. As well as the pressure relief valves in the pump there is a pressure relief valve at the front crankshaft bearing housing just behind the fan drive pulley. It is a spring and ball and if the ball gets worn it does not seat properly leading to low or erratic oil pressure.
Fill with diesel and bleed fuel pump, disconnect the injector pipe and turn engine over to see if fuel pump is working. If not working remove pump and check plunger cup not stuck. If stuck soak with penetrating fluid and free off. Tapping the pump on the bench can help shock the plunger free. If that does not work then the pump may have to be dismantled but that requires specialist knowledge. If the plunger is free and the pump still does not work the check valve on the top of the pump may be stuck. Unscrew the connector where the injector pipe screws onto the pump and carefully remove it and the spring inside it. The check valve sits under the spring and with the spring removed make sure the valve is free in it seat and the seat is undamaged. If the valve is stuck free off with a pair of pliers making sure to catch it by the area that the spring sits on and not the face of the valve. Check the spring not damaged and reassemble pump, refit to engine, bleed pump and check working OK. Remove injector from head and connect to injector pipe. Turn over engine and check injector working.
 Some 1V95 and 2V95 engines have heaters for cold starting but most have the oil plunger in the head. Before trying to start after sitting for a long time give it two measures of oil while turning the engine over with the de-compressor on. You should hear the injectors creaking as they operate. Try starting the engine by winding it up to a good speed then release the de-compressor. If it does not fire add another measure of oil when turning it over then release the de-compressor.
Click on the link below for an exploded view of the oil pump.

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